Charles nessleb



98. 22, 1931. NE S ER 1,837,577

MEANS FOR TESTING HAIR PREPARATORY TO TREATING OR WAVING THE SAME Filed 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 1 bee. 22, 1931. Q L R 1,837,577

MEANS FOR TESTING HAIR PREPARATORY TO' TREATING OR WAVING THE SAME Filed Dec. 4, 1925 4 Sheets-She'et 2 III bill lcl INVENTOR A T TORNE Dec. 22, 193 1. C NESSLER 1,837,577

MEANS FOR TESTING HAIR PREPARATORY TO TREATING OR WAVING THE SAME Filed Dec. 4, 1925 4 sheds-sheet 3 INVENTOR TURN Y E SAME c. NESSLER Dec. 22, 1931.

MEANS FOR TESTING HAIR PREPARATORY TO TREATING OR WAVING TH Filed Dec. 4, 1925 4 Sheets-Sheet 4 v IZVENTOQ M ,:w/ I ATTORNE Patented Dec. 22, 1931 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE CHARLES NESSLER, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., ASSIGINOR TO THE NESTLE-LE m (DI- RANY, OF NEW YORK, N. Y., A. CORPORATION 01' OHIO MEANS FOR TESTING HAIR PREPABATOBY TO TREATING- OB WA'V'DS'G THE sum Application filed December 4, 1925. Serial m. 73,088.

This invention relates generally to the art of permanent hair waving and more particularly to means for testing growing hair preliminary to a waving operation of the hair on the head in order to properly adapt the waving operation thereto.

The art of permanent hair waving on the head of the subject includes the winding of strands of hair about curling rods, treating the wound strands with an alkaline solution, and in heating the strands to a given temperature for a definite periodof time. In the practice of the art it has been found that hair undergoing treatment by the process outlined is variously affected, the finer and softer grades of hair being seriously in1ured by the action of an alkaline solution having a strength suitable for use with coarser and more resistant grades of hair.

In order to overcome this objectionable characteristic of the prior hair waving practice, a process has been developed in which alkaline solutions of different strengths are employed in order to treat the different grades of hair with solutions ha-vmg a strength or concentration appropriate to the grade of the hair under treatment.

A general object of the present invention is to provide means which will authoritatively measure the quality or grade of the hair under consideration for treatment, so that the strength or concentration of the 10- tion appropriate to that particular quality of hair is invariably indicated without chance of error.

1n the course of a series of experiments conducted for the purpose of the inventionI have found that the quality of the hair can be definitely ascertained by submitting it to tests for elasticity and elongation under a predetermined degree of pull. In order to achieve this useful result, I have devised an apparatus by which tests of the elasticity and capacity for elongation of sample strands of the hair under consideration can be made. The apparatus includes means for subjecting a given quantity of the sample hair to a measured tensile pull which is pref- 4 erably the same for all the strands tested. Means are provided for measuring the elongation or stretch produced by the tensile pull referred to, the scale readings which represent the elongation, together with the time and completeness of the reaction of different strands of hair when the weight is removed, being utilized to establish a series of gradations corresponding respectively to a scale of concentration values in the alkaline lotions employed. I may also employ as an additional factor in performing the tests the element of time as used in the production of a predetermined amount of elongation in the strand, thereby giving the length of stretch a constant value. Other features of the invention will be hereinafter referred to. I

In the drawings, in which a preferred embodiment of the invention has been selected for illustration,

Figure 1 is a view in side elevation of a hair-testing device embodying the invention.

Figure 2 is a view in side elevation and on an enlarged scale of a portion ofthe device shown in Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a view partly in side elevation and partly in section showing another portion of the device shown in Figure 1.

Figure 4 is a view partly in plan and partly I i Figure 8 is a view'in vertical section taken' tailed description of the invention, a hairtestin apparatus is shown in Figure 1 which inclu es a pair of clamping members 10 and 11 between which a sample strand of hair having a measured quantity of hair contained therein is clamped in order to have a stretching force applied thereto to produce an elongation or stretching of the hair sample.

The stretching referred to is produced through the action of a weight member 13 which is ada ted to be moved along the scale beam 14 to t ereby apply pressure through a link member 15 to an arm 16 pivoted at 17 on a standard 18. The other end of the arm 16 terminates in the clamping member 10 already referred to and it will be seen that the upward movement of the clamp 10 which is produced by the action of the weight 13 on the scale beam 14 roduces the stretching or elongation referre to.

In order to measure the amount of elongation or stretch that is produced in the sample of hair under consideration, a pointer 19 is provided which has a connection at one end with the clamp-carrying arm 16 and which is pivoted at 20 on a vertical frame member 21. The outer or free end of the pointer 19 is arranged to move along a graduated scale 22 to thereb indicate the amount of elongation of the strand of hair which is being sub jected to the stretching action.

In order to produce a balanced condition y of the parts a secondary weight member 23 is preferably provided, the weight bein carriedon the arm 16 at the right-hen side of the pivot 17 thereof. 1

With this arrangement it will be seen that if a strand of hair is clamped between the members 10 and 11 and the weight member 13 moved along the scale beam 14 to a predetermined position thereon, the strand of hair will be stretched or elongated and the amount of stretch or elongation will be shown on the scale 22 for comparison with other strands or known standards.

As a reliminary to the placing of the strand 0 hair in the clamp members 10 and 11 a portion of the strand is laced in a measuring slot 24 provided in a p ate 25. A pointer 26 hinged at 27 is arranged to engage the mass of hair in the slot 24 and to measure the quantity thereof by the position of the forward end of the pointer 26 with a scale 28 so that a like quantity of hair will be invariably selected for sub'ection to the test. It will thus be seen that y the use of a predetermined weight ap lied to a fixed uantity of hair the only varia le fa'ctor remamin IS the length of elongation or stretch whic is shown on the scale 22. It will be seen that the qiantit of hair measuredin the slot 24 is in open ent of the number of individual hairs in the strand, the quantity of hair being always the same.

In order to facilitate the production of constant or uniform-conditions in the testing operations the strand, just previous to the testing operation, is placed in an alkaline solution having a given strength and heated to the boiling point, in order not only to soften the structure somewhat to assist in the mess uring operation but also to establish a constant, uniform temperature in the strand at the time when the test is made. Preferably a heating'pad 50, adapted to be dipped into the hot solution, is applied to the strand to retain the heat during the stretching operation. It will be seen that another constant factor is thereby established in the operation so that the variable factor, that is the amount of elongation or stretch is the only factor necessar to be considered in makln the test.

It as been found that the making of the tests is facilitated by twisting the strand beclamp 29 mounted for vertical movement in a sleeve 30 and normally held in its lowermost position therein through the action of a spring not shown.

In order to bring about a twisting operation on the strand of hair a hand-crank 31 is provided which has a bevel gear connection at 32 with a shaft 33 on which the sleeve 30 is carried so that rotation of the sleeve 30 and the contained clamp 29 produces a twist in the strand of'hair as is clearly shown in Fi ure 2 of the drawings. In order to provi e for the contraction in the length of the strand which is produced by the twistin operation, the clamp 29 to which the end 0 the strand is attached is permitted to, rise in the sleeve 30 against the pressure of the spring referred to, a pin 34 carried by a plun er portion of the clamp 29 moving in the s at 35 for the purpose; The degree of twist 'ven the strand of hair is redetermined an is shown on a numbered isk 36 carried by the, shaft 33 and cooperating with a stop 37 so that the extent operating mechanism best shown'in Figure 3 of the drawings. A weight-moving chain 39 is driven by a sprocket Wheel 40 carried by the upright frame member 41 and over an idle sprocket member 42 at its other end which is mounted on the forward end of the beam 14. The shaft 43 of the sprocket 40 carriesa gear wheel 53 with which a pinion 44 is in mesh, the shaft of the pinion being provided with a crank handle 45 by which the chain 39 is driven. A carriage 46 is provided with rollers 47 which engage the beam 14, the carriage supporting the weight 13 through a suspension member 48. It will thus be seen that'rotation of the hand crank 45 results in the movement of the weight member 13 along the beam 14.

With the apparatus described it will be seen that it is a simple matter to' establish the elasticity and, to a certain extent, the tensile strength of the strand of hair under consideration. In addition to the factors named, that is, the constancy of the weight used in providing the pull, the uniformity of the uantity of material measured both in lengt and diameter of the strand, and the remaining variable factor, the elongation of the strand, provide results which are meas- BQ ures of the elasticity of the hair and which providea direct indication of the strength or concentration of the alkaline solution used in the hair-waving operation.

Other factors may also be usefully employed, for instance, the element of time may be considered in its relation'to the reaction of the stretched strand when released from its elongated position and also in measuring the time used in producing the" elongation, under the tensile pull.

In order to invariably'make use of strands containing the same quantity of hair the plate 25 which is provided with the measuring notch 24 is loosely mounted to yield slightly under the drawing action of the hair 'whe-n pulled through the slot in the event that more hair is present in the measuring slot than is required for the purpose. The withdrawal of a small number of individual hairs is usually enough to restore the balance and to permit the withdrawal ,of the strand without movement of the plate. When this precise point has been reached the quantity of hair present is correct for the purpose and the water and alkaline salts belonging to the sodium class.

In re ard to the twisted condition of the clampe hair strand, this feature of the invention causes all of the hairs to be uniformly stretched so that none of them escape the tensile pullin action therebyinsurin the uniformity o the stretchingfactor. en the hair strand is not twisted, care must be taken to have the clamps securely grip the straight strand in such manner as to leave none of the hairs free, otherwise, the quantity factor may not be maintained.

I wish to observe that the language an expressions which have been employed throughout the specification'are used as terms of description only and not of limitation, and such terms are intended to include all the equivalents and such modifications as are possible to be employed within the scope of the invention claimed.

What I claim is i 1. In a device for testing the stretch of growing hair preparatory to treatment or permanent waving thereof and to determine therefrom the strength of the hair-treating substance best a plicable. thereto, a scalebeam and a Weig t movable thereon, means for positively shifting the weight to predetermined position on the scale, a pair of spaced apart clamps for strand at points a given istance apart, one

of said clamps being stationary, means providing intermediate connections between the other clamp and the scale-beam and respondmg to the movements of the beam and serving to stretch the gripped hair-strand with a given tensile force the strength or amount.

ipping the hair r of which force is determined b ithe prede- T termined position to which the weight is shifted on the scale-beam, and means for measuring the. stretch of the hair-strand to grade it or treatment of the sampled hair, means providing intermediate connections between the measuring means and the scalebeam whereby the measuring means may be actuated by the movement of the beam.

2. In a device for testing the stretch of growing hair preparatory to treatment or permanentwaving thereof and to determine therefrom the strength of the hair-treating substance best applicable thereto, a pivotally .mounted arm having its pivotal axis between its ends, a clamp mounted on said arm for engaging one point of the sample strand of the hair, a fixed clamp for engaging another point of said hair strand a 'ven distance from said firstmentioned cant, a

scale-beam having a connecting mem r pivotally connected to said arm, a positively actuated weight traveling on said scale beam and shiftable to a predetermined position to exert a given amount of tensile pull whereby to swing said arm and thereby stretch said hair-strand, and means connected'with and actuatedby said pivoted-arm for. measuring 1 in substance best applicable thereto, amovportion moving the movable clampin ab eclampingmember for a strand of the hair, twisting means for en aging another 1portion of the strand to twlstthe same, a

xed clam ing member for engaging another the twisted strand, means for member to stretch the strand, and means, or measuring the elongation of the strand.

4 In a device for stretching an object, a

' f pair of clamps for gripping the' object at "s aced apart points thereof, one of said camps being movable and the other stationary with respect to the movable one, means for exerting tensile force upon the movable clamp to-stretch the gripped object, a rotaryclamp disposed beyond said stationary clamp for gripp ng and twisting said object, while held in said movable clamp but before it is gripped by said stationary clamp, said rotary v clamp being provided with a rotative shaft to turn the cla'mp on its axis and thereby twist the gripped object before stretching it, means for-turnlng the shaft, numbered means coni nected with and actuated by said shaft and thereo and means'for .,from=turning backward ing-opgratio'nr servin .to 7 indicate the number of turns preventing the shaft y during the twista device for testing the stretch of A growing: hair preparatory "to treatment or permanent waving thereof andto determine therefrom the strength of hair-treating substance best applicable thereto, a scale- I axis tlocated.

, the-other end to said pivoted-arm, a counter-- beam, a weight adapted to be moved alon said beam, 9,, ivoted arm having its pivota V tween its ends, a link ivoted-at one end to said scale-beam an at weight carried by said arm at the other side of' its pivotal axis from wherethe link is pivoted, a clamp mounted on the counterweighted end of said arm for gripping the hair-strand at one point, a graduated-scale for indicating the extent of stretch, an

index-member connected with and moved by said arm and cooperating with said graduated-scale, and a stationary clam for gripping said hair-strand at anot or point,

whereby the hair-strand may be stretched by movement of said pivoted-arm.

6.-In a device for testing the stretch of growing hair preparatory to treatment or v V permanent waving thereof and to determine therefrom the strength of hair-treating substance best applicable thereto, means for stretching a measured quantity of the hair to be treated with a given strength of pull,

- mean? permanent waving of the same and to determine therefrom the strength of hair-treating substance best applicable thereto, a scale-,

beam and weight therefor, a rocking-arm havin a connecting member pivotally connecte with said scale-beam, a hair-strand clamp arranged at a fixed point, a second hair-strand clamp connected with said rocking-arm and moving therewith and coacting with said fixed clamp to stretch the hair:

strand, a measuring scale and an index member cooperating therewith and actuated by said rocking-arm to record the amountv of stretch.

8. In a device for testing the stretch of growing hair preparatory to treatment or permanent waving thereof and to determine therefrom the strength of the hair-treating substance best applicable thereto, a scalebeam pivoted near one end and a traveling weight mounted thereon, a rocking-arm having a pivoted member operatively connected with said scale-beam at its free end, a hair: strand clamp disposed at a fixed point and a second hair-strand clamp connected with and moved by said rocking-arm to stretch the clamped hair-strand, a stretch indicating scale and an index member connected with and actuated by said rocking-arm and cooperating with said scale.

9. In a device for testing the stretch of growing hair preparatory to treatment or permanent waving thereof and to determine therefrom the strength of hair-treating substance best applicable thereto, a scale-beam provided with a weight a rotatable shafton which saidbeam is mounted, a chain-sprocket and a gear-wheel secured to said shaft, an idle sprocket mounted on said scale-beam and spaced from said shaft, a drive-chain engaging said idle-sprocket and sprocket and connected with and driving said. weight along the scale-beam, a drivinginion meshing with said gear-wheel, a xed hair-strand clamp, a movably mounted hairstrand clamp having a connecting-member pivotally connected with and actuated by the scale-beam to stretch the clamped hairstrand, and means for measuring the amount of stretch effected by the action of the scalebeam'.

10. In a device for testing the'stretch of growing hair preparatory to treatment or permanent waving thereof and to determine therefrom the strength of hair treating substance best applicable thereto, a scale-beam pivoted at one end and an adjustable weight mounted thereon, an arm pivoted remotely chainfrom its ends, a link pivoted between the free end of said scale-beam and one end of the arm, a. counter-weight carried by said arm at the other side of the pivot, meanscarried by the counter-weighted end of the arm for gripping a sample hair strand at one point, means fixed in position for gripping the sample at another point whereby the hair may be stretched by movement of, said arm, and means for measuring the stretch of the strand {10 grade it for I treatment" of the sampled air.

In testimony whereof, I have hereunto set my hand.

7 CHARLES NESSLER. 

